Monday 19 January 2009

Mind the gap: Tuscan rail stations to avoid


Like much of Italy, Tuscany is well served by the state railway system (Ferrovie dello Stato). One of the tours in my new guidebook shows you how to see the best of it by rail in a week or so. But there are a few stations where you definitely don't want to get off the train.

1 Pisa Centrale
Okay, that's a little unfair... Pisa Centrale is the place to alight if you're heading into central Pisa (and there's much to recommend it). But if you're planning a quick turismo tour of Piazza del Duomo—a.k.a. the Campo dei Miracoli—you'll find yourselves with a long, hot walk to reach first base. Get off at Pisa San Rossore instead and you're just a couple of minutes away.

2 Prato Centrale
Tuscany’s second city is a perfect day-trip from (or antidote to) Florence, but don't get off at Prato Centrale for the sights clustered round the Duomo. Alight at Prato Porta al Serraglio station, and the Lippi frescoes, the Virgin's Girdle and the rest of it are just a couple of minutes’ walk down Via Magnolfi.

3 Firenze Campo di Marte
Unless you're heading to a Fiorentina game, there probably isn't any reason for you to be at Florence's suburban station. Almost everything to see in the city is accessible from Firenze Santa Maria Novella. If you find yourself at Campo di Marte (say, off the night train from Paris), take any of the short rail interconnections, or city buses 12 or 33 from the street outside.

4 Montepulciano
Tuscany’s highest hill-town supposedly lies "on" the Siena–Chiusi secondary rail line, but the station is nowhere near Montepulciano (about 6 miles away). There's a local bus connection that theoretically hooks up with the train timetable, but, hey, this is Italy... If you're heading to Montepulciano (and you should), take the Tra.In bus.

5 Siena
The Gothic city of Siena is another that you're best visiting by bus, especially from Florence. Trains are regular, but long and slow, and sometimes require a change at Empoli. Then they dump you in Piazza Rosselli, 15 minutes by bus north of central Siena. Use the rapido bus operated jointly by Tra.In and SITA and alight at Piazza Gramsci, 5 minutes' walk north of the Campo.

There are, though, plenty of Tuscan towns that are ideal for rail-tripping. Aside from Florence, obviously, Lucca and Viareggio have good connections combined with stations just a short walk from the action. Arrive at Arezzo and you're just a short stroll downhill from the Piero della Francesca frescoes.

If you're travelling by rail, remember to validate your ticket before boarding, by inserting it into the yellow machines marked "convalida" on every platform. Local trains are cheap: if you're touring just in Tuscany for most of your trip, you won't get value from a pre-paid rail pass. Ticket machines are (almost) idiot-proof, and trips are easily planned in advance on the superb Trenitalia website.

Enjoy.

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