Yes, we're moving, lock, stock and barrel, to a shiny new website of our own. For all your Tuscany and Umbria trip-planning needs, point your browsers at www.tuscanyumbria.info. It's stage one of my plan to build a useful online resource for travelling to Tuscany and Umbria, to work alongside the guidebooks.
See you there.
I've added a paltry 3 pictures I snapped in Todi to my flickr set. Each has a brief introduction to these essential sights of the serene little Umbrian town. Perfectly proportioned Piazza del Popolo, with its 12th-century Duomo, and Santa Maria della Consolazione just outside the town walls are worth the trip alone. But more than that, Todi is a great place to just be, not necessarily to see. Put your camera away and soak up the peace.
There's much more help with planning a visit to Todi on the comune tourism page (in English). The tourist office is on 075/8945416.
From Wednesday 21st January through April, it will once again be possible to visit the Corridoio Vasariano. The "Vasarian Corridor" was designed by Renaissance man Giorgio Vasari for Cosimo I de' Medici: Cosimo didn't much like mixing with everyday folk when he was perusing his palazzi; Vasari built him a secret passageway so he didn't have to. The Corridoio now hosts one of the world's finest collections of artists' self-portraits.
The Corridoio, which runs from the Palazzo Vecchio through the Uffizi to the Pitti Palace in Oltrarno, including a clandestine crossing above the Ponte Vecchio, will be open twice daily for guided visits from Tuesday to Friday. Call 055/2654321 to book. Tickets are €10.50.
Like much of Italy, Tuscany is well served by the state railway system (Ferrovie dello Stato). One of the tours in my new guidebook shows you how to see the best of it by rail in a week or so. But there are a few stations where you definitely don't want to get off the train.
1 Pisa Centrale
Okay, that's a little unfair... Pisa Centrale is the place to alight if you're heading into central Pisa (and there's much to recommend it). But if you're planning a quick turismo tour of Piazza del Duomo—a.k.a. the Campo dei Miracoli—you'll find yourselves with a long, hot walk to reach first base. Get off at Pisa San Rossore instead and you're just a couple of minutes away.
2 Prato Centrale
Tuscany’s second city is a perfect day-trip from (or antidote to) Florence, but don't get off at Prato Centrale for the sights clustered round the Duomo. Alight at Prato Porta al Serraglio station, and the Lippi frescoes, the Virgin's Girdle and the rest of it are just a couple of minutes’ walk down Via Magnolfi.
3 Firenze Campo di Marte
Unless you're heading to a Fiorentina game, there probably isn't any reason for you to be at Florence's suburban station. Almost everything to see in the city is accessible from Firenze Santa Maria Novella. If you find yourself at Campo di Marte (say, off the night train from Paris), take any of the short rail interconnections, or city buses 12 or 33 from the street outside.
4 Montepulciano
Tuscany’s highest hill-town supposedly lies "on" the Siena–Chiusi secondary rail line, but the station is nowhere near Montepulciano (about 6 miles away). There's a local bus connection that theoretically hooks up with the train timetable, but, hey, this is Italy... If you're heading to Montepulciano (and you should), take the Tra.In bus.
5 Siena
The Gothic city of Siena is another that you're best visiting by bus, especially from Florence. Trains are regular, but long and slow, and sometimes require a change at Empoli. Then they dump you in Piazza Rosselli, 15 minutes by bus north of central Siena. Use the rapido bus operated jointly by Tra.In and SITA and alight at Piazza Gramsci, 5 minutes' walk north of the Campo.
There are, though, plenty of Tuscan towns that are ideal for rail-tripping. Aside from Florence, obviously, Lucca and Viareggio have good connections combined with stations just a short walk from the action. Arrive at Arezzo and you're just a short stroll downhill from the Piero della Francesca frescoes.
If you're travelling by rail, remember to validate your ticket before boarding, by inserting it into the yellow machines marked "convalida" on every platform. Local trains are cheap: if you're touring just in Tuscany for most of your trip, you won't get value from a pre-paid rail pass. Ticket machines are (almost) idiot-proof, and trips are easily planned in advance on the superb Trenitalia website.
Enjoy.
It's always pleasing to hear that our book is filling the trip-planning holes we intended. Of course, it was very nice to be judged the Best Guidebook of 2008 by travel industry insiders. And it's equally nice to be written about by a real family planning an actual trip to Tuscany this summer:
They [the With Your Family series] have ... all of the family friendly travel information you require. They give star ratings for attractions plus recommended ages (and I’m impressed by the fact that they have suggestions right from babies through to teenagers). There are highlights and must-see attractions. There are accommodation options for families from ultra-expensive through to economical (for which they provide price guidelines not just $$$ or $). I love the special icons they have - find, moment, value, overrated and green. Plus they include reviews of playgrounds and parks which are very important to families!
Visitors to Florence's Bargello Museum in early 2009 can look forward to a couple of extra treats on top of the usual world-class permanent sculpture collection. Restoration work has finished on Donatello's bronze David, the first free-standing nude since Roman times when it was completed sometime in the 1440s. It will take centre-stage alongside the sculptor's other Bargello works, and earlier (1401) bronze panels by Ghiberti and Brunelleschi, in the Salone del Quattrocento.
Meanwhile, April sees the opening of an important exhibition of works by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, charting the links between his sculpture and the birth of Baroque portraiture. It follows a major Bernini exhibition at California's Getty Center in 2008.
The Bargello Museum, housed inside a magnificent Gothic fortress on Via del Proconsolo, is worth €4 of your entrance money anytime. It's one Florence stop I recommend highly in the new book, due out in May.
Ever felt the urge to tackle the classic of Tuscan literature, the book that (partly) defined the Italian language? We do recommend it in the holiday reading section of our book. It's a thoroughly modern tale of lust, gluttony, greed, wrath, heresy, violence, fraud and treachery. But at three volumes, 1600+ pages in total, you'd better pack your toothbrush: Dante's Divine Comedy is a long old ride.
There may, however, be a shortcut in 2009. Videogame publisher Electronic Arts have just announced Dante's Inferno: the game, a third-person action adaptation of the first book of the Comedy. They've launched a short teaser trailer. According to Executive Producer Jonathan Knight:
The time is right for the world of interactive entertainment to adapt this literary masterpiece, and to re-introduce Dante to an audience who, until now, may have been unfamiliar with the remarkable details of this great work of art. It's the perfect opportunity to fuse great game play with great story.
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